Frequently asked questions.

Yes — Ben Greenwood and the team work across Brisbane's inner northwest. Our regular service area covers Alderley, Arana Hills, Ashgrove, Bardon, Enoggera, Enoggera Reservoir, Everton Hills, Everton Park, and surrounding suburbs out to The Gap, Upper Kedron and Ferny Hills. If you're a little outside that footprint we're usually still happy to take a look — give us a call and we'll let you know whether it's a good fit before we book a site visit.

For renovations, extensions, decks and most carpentry projects we provide a written fixed-price quote after a site visit. Smaller maintenance work and one-off carpentry tasks are usually handled hourly with a clear scope agreed up front. Either way you'll know exactly how the pricing structure works before we start, and we'll walk you through inclusions, exclusions and any items that might trigger a variation if conditions change.

Lead times vary with the size of the work. Smaller carpentry, weatherboard repairs and maintenance jobs we can usually start within a week or two. Renovations, kitchens and extensions need design and permit time and typically book several weeks ahead. The fastest way to get a real answer is to give us a quick call or send through your project details — we'll give you an honest scheduling window when we quote.

Yes. We're a member of Master Builders Queensland — the proud-member badge is shown on our home page. We're happy to share our membership and compliance documentation when we quote — just ask and we'll send it through with the proposal.

Yes. All structural work is covered by the statutory builder warranty applicable in Queensland, and we stand behind our workmanship beyond that. If something we built or installed isn't right, we want to hear about it — we'll come back and fix it. The exact terms depend on the type of work and we walk through them in writing as part of every contract so there are no surprises later.

The simplest way is to call Ben on 0422 369 081 or fill out the form on our contact page. Tell us roughly what you're thinking — a kitchen refit, a deck, a new home, weatherboard repair — and any rough timeline. We'll book a site visit, walk through the scope with you, and follow up with a written fixed-price quote that you can take your time reviewing before deciding.

A fit-out covers everything we install internally to make a space functional and finished — built-in joinery, wardrobes, shelving, skirting, architraves, cornices, custom cabinetry surrounds, doors and door hardware. We can fit out a single room as a stand-alone job or scope a full-house fit-out as part of a renovation. Every job starts with measure-up and design discussion so the joinery suits the way you actually live in the space.

Yes — Queenslander fit-outs are one of our specialties. We respect the original detailing (VJ walls, picture rails, traditional door hardware, period skirtings) and match new work to it where you want continuity, or carefully introduce contemporary elements where you want a deliberate contrast. Most of our heritage work in Ashgrove, Bardon and Paddington is exactly this kind of sympathetic upgrade rather than a wholesale replacement.

We do both. For most projects we manage the supply through trusted local cabinet makers and joinery shops we've worked with for years — that gives you a single point of accountability for fit and finish. If you've already engaged a designer or have specific joinery you've sourced yourself, we're happy to install supplied items and quote on a labour-only basis.

It depends entirely on scope. A single built-in wardrobe is usually one to three days on site once the joinery is fabricated. A whole-room fit-out (study, laundry, walk-in robe) is typically a week. Full-house fit-outs done alongside a renovation run into multiple weeks and we sequence them so other trades aren't held up. We'll give you a programme as part of the quote.

We can handle the full scope — including paint, stain, and finishing — by managing trusted painters as part of the project. Some clients prefer to engage their own painter or do it themselves, which is also fine; we'll leave the joinery primed and ready. The simplest answer is: tell us where you want our scope to end and we'll quote it accordingly.

Yes, and it's something we take seriously — mismatched trim is one of the most visible giveaways of a poorly matched renovation. We profile-match wherever possible, source replicas of out-of-production profiles where needed, and where an exact match isn't achievable we'll discuss options that still feel right rather than guessing.

Both. Repairs and patch replacements for storm or rot damage are common — we match the existing profile, prime and paint to blend in, and you'd struggle to spot the new boards once it's done. Full re-clads are also part of our regular work, often as part of a renovation or when the existing cladding is past saving. We'll honestly tell you which approach makes more sense for your house when we inspect.

Yes — we work regularly with James Hardie cement-based weatherboard products as well as traditional timber. For homes where ongoing maintenance is a concern, the cement-based options offer real durability and a long paint life. We'll walk you through the trade-offs (cost, look, weight, fixings) so you can decide which is right for your house and your timeline.

We take this seriously. Pre-war Queenslanders use specific profiles (chamfered, rebated, double-bevel) that aren't always carried by big chain hardware stores. We source through specialist suppliers and, when needed, get short runs custom-milled to match. The goal is for new boards to read as part of the original house — not as obvious recent work.

Yes — replacement boards need to be primed and painted to protect them and to colour-match the existing wall. We can manage the full scope including painting via trusted local painters, or we can prime the boards and leave finish coats to your painter. Either way, the boards don't go up bare timber and walk away from the job — that's a corner we don't cut.

It depends on house size and access. A single elevation of a typical Queenslander is usually around a week including scaffolding, board removal, sarking inspection, board installation, primer and paint touch-ups. A full-house re-clad is several weeks and we'd sequence it so the house stays weatherproof at every stage of the work.

It happens — sometimes the existing weatherboards have been hiding underlying issues with framing, sarking or window flashings. If we find something during the strip-down we stop, document it with photos, and quote the additional work as a clear variation before continuing. You'll never get a surprise bill at the end; we'd rather have the conversation while the wall is still open.

We do both. Most projects we manage the supply through local timber joinery shops and aluminium suppliers we've worked with for years, which gives you a single point of accountability for measure, manufacture and fit. If you've already chosen and ordered specific windows we're happy to install supplied items — just send us the schedule and the delivery dates.

It comes down to look, climate performance, ongoing maintenance and budget. Timber gives the warmest finish and is the right choice on heritage and Queenslander homes. Aluminium is the simplest in coastal salt-air conditions and lets you design slimmer profiles. Composite frames are increasingly common where you want timber inside and weather-resistant exterior. We'll walk through it with you on site rather than push a single answer.

Yes — double-glazed timber and aluminium windows are part of the range we install regularly, particularly on west-facing rooms where afternoon heat is an issue and on bedrooms where road noise matters. We can also retrofit to existing window openings as part of a wider energy-efficiency upgrade.

Often yes — most external door slabs can be replaced into the existing frame as long as the frame itself is sound, square and the new slab is a standard size. We'll measure on site and confirm before ordering. If the frame has dropped or rotted, we'd recommend replacing both at the same time — patching a tired frame onto a new door is a corner we don't cut.

Standard aluminium windows from local suppliers are usually two to four weeks lead time. Timber windows and doors made to order are typically four to eight weeks depending on the joinery shop's queue. We'll confirm the actual lead time when we quote so you can plan around it, and we don't start demolition until the new windows are physically on site.

Yes. Replacing windows and doors almost always means some plaster, sarking and trim work either side — that's part of our scope as standard. We re-trim, fill, sand and prime ready for paint. If you want us to handle the final paint coats too, we can either do that or coordinate with a painter — your call.

It depends on your priorities. Composite decking (Trex, Modwood and similar) lasts longest with the lowest ongoing maintenance — no oiling, no splinters, very stable in Brisbane's wet/dry cycles. Merbau gives the warmest natural look and lasts decades if it's oiled annually. Treated pine is the budget option and absolutely fine on a covered deck or where the deck will be replaced in a renovation in 10-15 years anyway. We'll talk through the trade-offs before you commit.

Yes. Decking isn't just the boards on top — it's the bearers, joists, footings, and connection back to the house, all of which have to comply with the National Construction Code and Queensland regulations. We engineer and build the whole thing, including pier holes, bracing, and the right flashings where the deck meets the existing wall.

This is one of the most common places older decks fail and we treat it carefully. Whenever we tie a new deck back into an existing wall we install proper flashing, sarking, and a small gap where required so the wall behind doesn't rot over time. If we're replacing an existing deck and the wall behind has water damage we'll show you and quote the rectification before continuing.

It depends on the size, height above ground, and proximity to boundaries. A small low-set deck off a back door often doesn't need formal approval. Anything elevated, attached to the house structurally, or above a certain area will. We can guide you through what your specific project needs, work with the certifier on your behalf, and lodge what's required so you don't end up with a non-compliant deck.

A standard rear deck of around 30-40 square metres is usually two to three weeks on site once approvals are in place. That includes footings, framing, decking, balustrades and stairs. Bigger wrap-around decks and decks with roofs or pergolas attached run longer. We'll give you a programme as part of the quote.

Yes — and we recommend thinking that way if an extension is on your roadmap. We can design and build the deck with footings, levels and a structural connection that suits a later extension, so you don't end up demolishing parts of the deck when the next project comes around. Tell us your longer-term plans when we scope the work.

We cover internal and external building maintenance — everything from patching, refixing and repairing through to door adjustments, weather seal replacements, gutter and fascia repairs, deck and balustrade tightening, weatherboard touch-ups, internal trim repairs and timber rot treatment. If it's carpentry-led and on the building fabric, it's in scope. Painting, plaster and roofing repairs we manage via trusted trades.

We take on smaller maintenance jobs — particularly for clients we've worked with before. We're realistic about it: a single hour of work isn't viable as a stand-alone visit, but a half-day of accumulated small jobs absolutely is. The simplest approach is to make a list of what you'd like done and we'll come and tackle them in one visit.

Yes. We diagnose where the water is actually coming from first — the worst thing you can do is replace a rotten board without fixing the leak feeding it. Once the cause is sorted, we cut out and replace the affected timber, treat surrounding areas, and reinstate paint or finish so the repair blends in. It's a regular part of older-home maintenance work for us.

For a defined scope, yes — we walk through the list with you and quote it written down. For genuinely small one-off items where the labour is the main cost, we usually agree an hourly rate up front and you'll see the breakdown afterwards. Either way you know how it'll be charged before any work starts.

Yes — for repeat clients we often coordinate a painter, roofer, or plumber alongside our visit so several maintenance items get knocked out together. It saves you organising multiple tradespeople and keeps the disruption to a single window. Tell us what you need and we'll suggest the best way to package it up.

We do informal annual or six-monthly check-ins for clients who want it, particularly on older Queenslanders where ongoing weatherboard, window and trim attention pays off long-term. It's not a formal contract — more of a phone call to schedule a visit and walk the property. Useful for landlords and owners who'd rather get ahead of issues than react to them.

On the building-fabric side we handle wall and ceiling insulation upgrades (including blown-in insulation for existing walls), double-glazed window replacement, draught-sealing, and roof-line ventilation improvements. We don't do solar panels or hot-water systems — that's a different trade — but we coordinate with electricians and plumbers when those are part of a wider renovation.

Yes — for existing brick and weatherboard walls without insulation, blown-in insulation through small access holes in either side of the wall is a real option and we install it routinely as part of broader upgrades. It's not as effective as a wall built insulated from new, but it makes a meaningful comfort difference, particularly on west and north walls.

Yes — particularly for west-facing rooms in summer and for road-noise reduction year-round. The biggest gains in our climate are usually from west and north windows, and from any rooms you cool with air conditioning. We're honest about it: not every window is worth replacing for energy efficiency alone — we'll tell you which ones move the needle.

Both. Some clients book a focused upgrade — for example, replacing six windows and adding ceiling insulation. Others want a whole-of-house energy-efficiency review tied to a renovation. We can scope either way and we don't charge for the conversation about what's worth doing first.

Less than you'd think. Insulation work is usually completed in a single day with minimal mess. Window replacement is typically one window at a time, an hour or two each, with the room reusable that evening. Wall-cavity work involves small drilled access holes that are filled and repainted. We work around your routine wherever we can.

Rebates and incentive programmes change frequently and vary by your power retailer and household income. We can flag what's currently available when we quote, but we recommend you confirm the latest with the relevant Queensland government website or your electricity retailer — we don't want to give you stale information about a rebate that's already closed.

Anything single-room or single-zone — a kitchen, bathroom, laundry, study, deck conversion, or one focused upgrade like opening up a wall between two rooms. Once it spans multiple rooms or involves structural changes through the house, it becomes a 'medium' renovation. Either is in scope; we draw the line based on what makes sense for planning and pricing.

Usually not. A bathroom renovation typically means you can't use that bathroom for two to three weeks, so the family needs to share another one. A kitchen reno is harder — we work with clients to set up a temporary kitchenette in another space (laundry, garage, dining nook) so the household keeps functioning. We'll walk through the impact realistically when we scope.

We can. For straightforward single-room renovations we often work directly from your sketch or Pinterest board and an internal plan we draw together. For projects where a designer or architect adds real value (open-plan reconfigurations, structural changes), we coordinate with the right person and bring them in early. We don't push you into a designer if you don't need one.

Bathroom: three to four weeks on site. Kitchen: four to six weeks on site. Single-room conversion or study fit-out: one to three weeks. We always give you a programme with milestones as part of the quote so you know what 'on track' looks like and can plan family logistics around it.

Where it's sensible, absolutely. A working oven, a recently replaced tap, or a bathtub in good condition can stay if you want it to. We're honest about what's worth reusing versus what's a false economy — sometimes the labour to extract and reinstall an old fitting costs more than a new one. We'll tell you which is which on your job.

You'll hear about it the same day. Older homes often hide outdated wiring, leaky pipework or termite damage that only surfaces when walls come off. We document with photos, quote the additional work as a clear variation, and let you make an informed call. Surprise final bills aren't how we work — variations are agreed before the work happens.

A standard bathroom renovation is usually three to four weeks on site once we start. That covers strip-out, plumbing rough-in, tiling, fit-out, finishing and handover. The pre-site phase (design, ordering, waterproofer scheduling) takes another two to four weeks depending on tile and fitting lead times. We share a programme up front so you know what to expect.

Yes — a bathroom strip-out means that bathroom is unusable from day one until the new one is signed off. If you have another bathroom, the household just shares it. If it's your only bathroom, we plan in advance — in some cases we can stage the work to keep the toilet usable for longer; in others we recommend organising temporary alternatives. We'll discuss it openly when we scope.

Waterproofing is mandatory in Queensland bathrooms and we manage it through certified waterproofers as part of the scope. The waterproof membrane is inspected and certified before tiling — there's no shortcut on this and we wouldn't try to take one. The certification is part of the handover paperwork you receive.

Yes, and we often do. Moving wet points (toilet, shower, vanity) means re-routing plumbing and sometimes drainage falls, which adds cost — but it's usually the difference between a renovation that solves the underlying frustration with the bathroom and one that just refreshes the tiles. We'll lay out options at the design stage.

Either works. We can manage the full supply through local suppliers we work with regularly, which gives you trade pricing and accountability for delivery dates. Or you can pick and order everything yourself — many clients enjoy that part of the process. Whichever way, send us the spec list early so we can confirm timing.

For a straightforward like-for-like upgrade we work directly from your selections and an internal plan we draw together — no designer needed. For a fundamental rework of the layout, or if you want help curating fittings and finishes, a bathroom designer is a worthwhile investment and we coordinate with one as part of the project.

A typical kitchen renovation is four to six weeks on site. Strip-out, services rough-in, plastering, flooring, cabinet install, stonework, splashback, appliance fit-off and finishing all need to happen in sequence. The pre-site phase (design, cabinet manufacture, stone templating) usually adds another four to six weeks. We share a full programme so you can plan around the kitchen-less period.

We try. Once strip-out starts the kitchen is out of action, but until then we can usually leave the existing kitchen functional during design and ordering. We help clients set up a temporary kitchenette (microwave, kettle, fridge, sink alternative) in another room so the family can still cook reasonable meals during the on-site period.

We partner with established local cabinet makers we've worked with for years rather than running an in-house joinery shop. That means you get specialist cabinet work — proper soft-close hardware, accurate panel matching, well-finished doors — and we manage the whole supply, install, and any post-install adjustments as one project.

All three are in scope. Stone (quartz-engineered or natural) gives the highest-end finish and lasts longest. Composite/laminate options have come a long way and are a sensible choice on a tighter budget. We'll talk through the practical differences (heat resistance, joins, repair-ability, edge profiles) so the choice fits your real-life kitchen use.

Yes. Whether you're keeping existing appliances, replacing a few, or doing a full appliance refresh, we coordinate the appliance schedule with the cabinet design so cutouts are exact and there are no awkward gaps. If you want help choosing, we can recommend local appliance suppliers we trust — but we don't on-sell appliances ourselves.

Yes — we manage the full sequence including qualified plumbers and electricians under our supervision. Splashbacks (tile, glass, stone) are part of our scope. The sub-trade work happens at the right point in the programme so you only deal with us as the single point of contact for the whole job.

Custom homes only. Every house we build starts from your block, your brief, and (usually) a designer or architect you've engaged. We don't run a 'pick from this catalogue' display range — that's a different builder model. Our work is one-of-one new homes, often on infill blocks in established Brisbane northwest suburbs, and frequently on slope or otherwise constrained sites that need a thoughtful approach.

Yes — secondary dwellings (granny flats, dual-occupancy units, garden studios) are a regular part of our work, particularly on older Queenslander blocks where there's room for a separate dwelling at the rear. We handle the full build and coordinate with the certifier and council on the additional dwelling approval requirements that apply in Queensland.

From contract signature to handover, a typical custom new home is around 9 to 14 months depending on size and complexity. Site preparation and slab is usually 4-6 weeks, frame is 4-6 weeks, lockup (roof and external walls) is 6-8 weeks, fix-out and finishing is 12-16 weeks. We share a master programme at contract stage and update it monthly through the build.

Either works. For complex sites or homes where the design is the critical investment, an architect adds real value. For more straightforward briefs, a building designer or experienced draftsman produces plans we can build from cost-effectively. We can recommend designers and architects we've worked with successfully if you don't already have one.

Progress payments follow the standard Queensland Building Construction Commission (QBCC) staged-payment structure: deposit, base/slab, frame, lockup, fix, completion. Each stage is invoiced only when that stage is verifiably complete, and the percentages are set by the regulator — not negotiable. The contract spells it all out before signing.

We work to a fixed-price contract. Variations only arise from changes you decide on (a different tile, an upgraded appliance) or from genuinely unforeseen site conditions (rock under the slab, hidden services). Each variation is documented in writing with cost impact before the work happens, so the final number doesn't surprise you.

On Brisbane's northwest, the most common extensions we build are: rear additions onto Queenslanders to add a kitchen-living-dining open plan, second-storey 'pop-tops' on post-war homes to add bedrooms upstairs, side extensions to add a master suite or office, and ground-floor build-ins under elevated Queenslanders to convert downstairs into livable space. We've done all four many times over.

Pop-tops add a new upper level by raising the existing roof, framing a new storey above the original house, and tying everything back into the existing services. Build-unders convert the under-house space into bedrooms, bathrooms or living rooms, requiring underpinning, cladding, weatherproofing and full fit-out. Both are major projects but they keep the character of the original Queenslander while doubling the usable floor area.

It depends on scope. A rear extension that doesn't open up the existing house structurally — usually no, you can stay through. A pop-top or full second storey typically requires moving out for several weeks during the roof-off phase. We're upfront about this when we scope so you can plan accordingly. Some clients use this as an opportunity for a holiday.

A rear ground-floor extension of 30-40 square metres is usually 4 to 6 months on site. A pop-top second storey on a Queenslander is 6 to 9 months. Full back-and-up extensions can run 9-12 months. The longer timelines reflect the structural complexity, weatherproofing requirements, and the inevitable design coordination across multiple trades.

If that's what you want, yes — we go to real lengths to match weatherboard profiles, window styles, eave details and trim so the addition reads as part of the original. Many clients deliberately want the new section to look 'newer' and we can do that too — clean modern lines, contrasting cladding, picture windows. We'll discuss which approach suits you and your house at design stage.

Yes — we coordinate engineering, certification and council approvals as part of the project. For most Brisbane extensions you'll need a building certifier and a structural engineer, and we engage both early on your behalf. We don't start on site until approvals are in hand and the full scope is documented to a standard the certifier will sign off on.